Update 14 February 2017
After Little Farmers Cay, we went to Black Point. One of the attractions is the best coin operated Laundromat in the central Exumas. How many time have any of you chosen to head to a specific town just to do laundry?
We arrived on Superbowl Sunday and the town was jumping so we decided to just stay on the boat. On Monday, we went to town to scout it out. The laundry was waiting lines long with cruisers preparing to depart. We did some provisioning and a little hiking to see the sights. Several places along the streets, under trees, sat folks in the shade weaving grass hats, bowls and baskets. At the market, the nice lady gave us a dilly from their sapodilla tree which we hope will ripen before it spoils. After a nice lunch we headed back to the boat.
Tuesday became laundry day. Many of the cruisers had moved on so there were no waiting lines. We also had a great breakfast at Lorraine’s Restaurant as our early lunch. A little more provisioning and a visit with sailing friends from SV “Riannon” and back to the boat. Some of the provisions I was hoping to get were about 40% higher than in Little Farmers Cay which was a big surprise.
A highlight was catching a fish! …. Almost. There were a couple long fish cruising in the shade under our boat. I dropped in a line with a piece of fish attached to the hook. One of the fish about 3 feet long took the bait and hooked himself. I brought him in with the hand spool. We weren’t sure about the type of fish. When snorkeling, they looked a little like a type of shark to me, so I wanted to make sure before bringing it aboard. When I raised its head out of the water for a look, it threw the hook out and escaped. Barbara believes it was an amber jack. I think it was a snook. Whichever, none of them would touch the bait again.
So much for Black Point. We liked the little town. The people were friendly and the town was pretty clean. Bahamian islands and towns have tons of refuse around, mostly plastic. It washes up on the beaches and gets thrown into the bushes by the locals. Most cruisers try hard not to add to the mess and some of us even pick up some of the trash and put it into any available trash barrel, if there is one.
On to Staniel Cay.
Staniel Cay is more up scale. It looks a little like Hope Town with the many colored rentals. The Staniel Cay Yacht Club is a focal point for cruisers, offering some slips and fuel and bar and restaurant, etc., and the perpetual collection of sharks near the fish cleaning station!
Nearby is Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame.
We topped up with fuel, moved way from the dock, anchored and dinghied back to town for a shopping spree. We found a few items at Pink market and a few more at Blue market, but no bread or eggs. However, the coconut cake and zucchini bread were treats. So is the local cheese.
After moving for more protection from a northerly blow, we spent two nights on the boat at anchor. Because of weather timing, we decided to move farther north and skip additional time in the Staniel Cay area. However, we were not going to find provisions again for perhaps many days, so, back to town. Fresh bread and zucchini bread was available at Blue, as well as some frozen chicken hind quarters but still no eggs. Barbara had been wanting chicken, in part to have skin for fishing. A long walk to Isles General Market provided eggs and some fresh produce.
Back to the boat and off we go to Cambridge Cay, which is in the Exumas Land and Sea Park. We spent two nights on a mooring ball (can you pick out "Submit"?)
and part of a day hiking Cambridge Cay.
You never know what type of wild animal you'll find in the park!
Early Monday morning the 13th found us dropping the mooring ball and heading out for an overnight passage to White Cay/Devils Cay/Fowl Cay anchorage area of the Berries. We were under way for about 27 hours, but had to motor the whole way due to adverse northerly breezes. Night fall found us out of deep water onto the shallow bank for 25 miles. There were no routes for us to follow in this area and warnings from the navigation system about using caution, shallow reefs and coral heads, and only traveling with good daylight visibility. Does an almost full moon count?
Besides the moon, there were lots of stars and the lights of Nassau to the west of us. “Liberty Princess” cruised by in the night, lit up like Las Vegas. “Disney Dream” cruised past at daylight. Today, Valentines Day, finds us anchor down at 25’36.8 N, 77’43.963 W.